Download or read book Fashion Under the Occupation written by Dominique Veillon and published by . This book was released on 2002-10 with total page 236 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: During World War 2 French women, determined not to give way to the inevitable austerities, sought innovation wearing hats made out of blotting paper or newspapers & blouses made out of parachute silk. This is a history of French fashion during the war years.
Download or read book La mode sous l Occupation written by Dominique Veillon and published by . This book was released on 2001 with total page 290 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Modern Age written by Alexandra Palmer and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2018-11-01 with total page 515 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Over the last century there has been a complete transformation of the fashion system. The unitary top-down fashion cycle has been replaced by the pulsations of multiple and simultaneous styles, while the speed of global production and circulation has become ever faster and more complex. Running in tandem, the development of artificial fibres has revolutionized the composition of clothing, and the increased focus on youth, sexuality, and the body has radically changed its design. From the 1920s flapper dress to debates over the burkini, fashion has continued to be deeply involved in society's larger issues. Drawing on a wealth of visual, textual and object sources and illustrated with 100 images, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Modern Age presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.
Download or read book Establishing Dress History written by Lou Taylor and published by Manchester University Press. This book was released on 2004-05-07 with total page 356 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: 'Establishing Dress History' will appeal not only to students and academics bt all those those with an interest in the history of dress and fashion. The title fuses together two areas of current academic interest, dress design and history, and current museum studies approaches.
Download or read book Made in Europe written by Klaus Nathaus and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2016-01-22 with total page 181 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This edited collection studies the production and dissemination of popular music, tourism, cinema, fashion, broadcasting programmes, advertising and coffee in Western Europe in the twentieth century. Focussing on the supply side of popular culture, it addresses a field of study that is neglected in European historiography. Moreover, it provides a theoretical and methodological discussion that takes into account the inherent dynamics of content production and the role of cultural intermediaries in the change of cultural repertoires. Taking key developments in the culture industries in the USA as a point of reference, the book highlights particularities of cultural production in Europe. It identifies a greater autonomy of creatives, stronger influence of critics and a lesser concern with audience research as three characteristics of the production regime in Western Europe. It takes into view the transfer of popular culture across the Atlantic and between European countries and offers new insights into research on the cultural Americanisation of Europe. This book was originally published as a special issue of the European Review of History.
Download or read book Paris Fashion and World War Two written by Lou Taylor and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2020-01-09 with total page 609 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Winner of the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2021 In 1939, fashion became an economic and symbolic sphere of great importance in France. Invasive textile legislation, rationing and threats from German and American couturiers were pushing the design and trade of Parisian style to its limits. It is widely accepted that French fashion was severely curtailed as a result, isolated from former foreign clients and deposed of its crown as global queen of fashion. This pioneering book offers a different story. Arguing that Paris retained its hold on the international haute couture industry right throughout WWII, eminent dress historians and curators come together to show that, amid political, economic and cultural traumas, Paris fashion remained very much alive under the Nazi occupation – and on an international level. Bringing exciting perspectives to challenge a familiar story and introducing new overseas trade links out of occupied France, this book takes us from the salons of renowned couturiers such as Edward Molyneux and Robert Piguet, French Vogue and Le Jardin des Modes and luxury Lyon silk factories, to Rio de Janeiro, Denmark and Switzerland, and the great American department stores of New York. Also comparing extravagant Paris occupation styles to austerity fashions of the UK and USA, parallel industrial and design developments highlight the unresolvable tension between luxury fashion and the everyday realities of wartime life. Showing that Paris strove to maintain world dominance as leader of couture through fashion journalism, photography and exported fashion forecasting, Paris Fashion and World War Two makes a significant contribution to the cultural history of fashion.
Download or read book The Unfree French written by Richard Vinen and published by Yale University Press. This book was released on 2006-01-01 with total page 508 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The swift and unexpected defeat of the French Army in 1940 shocked the nation. This compelling book investigates the impact of the occupation on the people of France and dispels any lingering notion that somehow, under the collaborating government of Marshal Petain, life was quite tolerable for most French citizens.
Download or read book National Regeneration in Vichy France written by Debbie Lackerstein and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2016-04-22 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The creators of the Vichy regime did not intend merely to shield France from the worst effects of military defeat and occupation; rather the leaders of Vichy were inspired by a will to regenerate France, to establish an authoritarian new order that would repair the degenerative effects of parliamentary democracy and liberal society. Their plan to effect this change took the form of a far-reaching programme they called the National Revolution. This is the first study of the National Revolution as the expression of Vichy's ideology and aims. It reveals the variety and complexity of both right wing and other strands of French thought in the context of the turbulent years of the 1930s - when Vichy's history really begins - and under the Occupation, when internal rivalries and divisions, as well as the pressures of war, doomed Vichy's programme of national regeneration. The book is structured around a consideration of the rhetoric of right-wing ideology and such key catchwords as 'decadence', 'action', 'order', 'realism' and 'new man', and shows how these phrases only served to mask the political and ideological incoherence of the Vichy government.
Download or read book Art of the Defeat written by Laurence Bertrand Dorléac and published by Getty Publications. This book was released on 2008 with total page 452 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Art of the Defeat offers an unflinching look at the pivotal role art played in France during the German occupation. It begins with Adolf Hitler's staging of the armistice at Rethondes and moves across the dark years - analyzing the official junket by French artists to Germany, the exhibition of Arno Breker's colossi in Paris, the looting of the state museums and Jewish collections, the glorification of Philippe P?tain and a pure national identity, the demonization of modernists and foreigners, and the range of responses by artists and artisans. The sum is a pioneering expos? of the deployment of art and ideology to hold the heart of darkness at bay"--Page 4 of cover.
Download or read book Reign of Virtue written by Miranda Pollard and published by University of Chicago Press. This book was released on 2012-07-15 with total page 308 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In Reign of Virtue, Miranda Pollard explores the effects of military defeat and Nazi occupation on French articulations of gender in wartime France. Drawing on governmental archives, historical texts, and propaganda, Pollard explores what most historians have ignored: the many ways in which Vichy's politicians used gendered images of work, family, and sexuality to restore and maintain political and social order. She argues that Vichy wanted to return France to an illustrious and largely mythical past of harmony, where citizens all knew their places and fulfilled their responsibilities, where order prevailed. The National Revolution, according to Pollard, replaced the ideals of liberty, equality, and fraternity with work, family, and fatherland, making the acceptance of traditional masculine and feminine roles a key priority. Pollard shows how Vichy's policies promoted the family as the most important social unit of a new France and elevated married mothers to a new social status even as their educational, employment, and reproductive rights were strictly curtailed.
Download or read book The French at War 1934 1944 written by Nicholas Atkin and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2014-07-22 with total page 205 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The years 1934 to 1944 remain the most contentious and dramatic decade in modern French history. Covering the Occupation, the Vichy regime, the Resistance and collaboration, Nick Atkin provides an important introduction to this key period. Accessible and concise, the book offers a wide-ranging synthesis of key themes and events. Looking ahead to the present day, the book also examines how the French establishment and public have coped with the legacy of Vichy, and explains why the occupation is still ever present in French politics and everyday life.
Download or read book Colors in Fashion written by Jonathan Faiers and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2016-11-17 with total page 281 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Color speaks a powerful cultural language, conveying political, sexual, and economic messages that, throughout history, have revealed how we relate to ourselves and our world. This ground-breaking compilation is the first to investigate how color in fashionable and ceremonial dress has played a significant social role, indicating acceptance and exclusion, convention and subversion. From the use of white in pioneering feminism to the penchant for black in post-war France, and from mystical scarlet broadcloth to the horrors of arsenic-laden green fashion, this publication demonstrates that color in dress is as mutable, nuanced, and varied as color itself. Divided into four thematic parts – solidarity, power, innovation, and desire – each section highlights the often violent, emotional histories of color in dress across geographical, temporal and cultural boundaries. Underlying today's relaxed attitude to color lies a chromatic complexity that speaks of wars, migrations and economics. While acknowledging the importance that technology has played in the development of new dyes, the chapters explore color as a catalyst for technical innovation that continues to inspire designers, artists, and performers. Bringing together cutting-edge contributions from leading scholars, it is essential reading for academics of fashion, textiles, design, cultural studies and art history.
Download or read book The Art of Survival written by Libby Murphy and published by Yale University Press. This book was released on 2016-08-23 with total page 302 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The First World War soldier has often been depicted as a helpless victim sacrificed by a ruthless society in the trenches of the Western Front. In fact, Libby Murphy reveals, French soldiers drew upon a long-standing European tradition to imagine themselves not as heroes or victims but as survivors. Murphy investigates how infantrymen and civilians attempted to make sense of the war while it was still in progress by reviving the picaresque, a literary mode in which unheroic protagonists are forced to fend for themselves in a chaotic and hostile world. By examining works by French and European novelists, journalists, graphic artists, cultural critics, and filmmakers—including Charlie Chaplin—Libby Murphy shows how the rich tradition of the European picaresque was uniquely appropriate for expressing anxieties provoked by modern, industrialized warfare.
Download or read book Strains of Dissent written by Kelly Jakes and published by MSU Press. This book was released on 2019-01-01 with total page 202 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: During the German Occupation from 1940 to 1944, Resistance fighters, Parisian youth, and French prisoners of war mined a vast repertoire from a long national musical tradition and a burgeoning international entertainment industry, embracing music as a rhetorical resource with which to destabilize Nazi ideology and contest collaborationist Vichy propaganda. After the Liberation of 1944, popular music continued to mediate French political life, helping citizens to challenge American hegemony and recuperate their nation’s lost international standing. Ultimately, through song, French dissidents rejected Nazi subordination, the politics of collaboration, and American intervention and insisted upon a return to that trinity of traditional French values, liberté, egalité, fraternité. Strains of Dissent recovers the significance of music as a rhetorical means of survival, subversion, and national identity construction and illuminates the creative and cunning ways that individual citizens defied the Occupation outside of formal resistance networks and movements.
Download or read book Fashioning the City written by Agnès Rocamora and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2009-04-30 with total page 239 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: While much attention has been paid to the making of Paris in the work of writers and artists, little is known about the city as defined and created by the fashion media. Filling this gap in studies of the French capital, this original and illuminating book focuses on how the French fashion press - with its rich conjunction of words and images - has been able to construct Paris as a leading world fashion city.Based in an original analysis of fashion writing and images in contemporary French fashion magazines and newspapers, the book shows how the fashion media have been central to the consecration of the city of Paris on the fashion map, as well as its celebration in the collective imaginary. Agnes Rocamora explores, for example, the figures of 'la Parisienne' and 'la passante' (the female passer by), and the presence of the Eiffel tower in fashion visuals. She gives attention to the continuum between the French journalistic discourse and that of cultural forms such as films, paintings and literature, thus revealing the persistence across texts and time of visions of Paris and shedding light on the production and reproduction of the Paris myth.
Download or read book Women and the Second World War in France 1939 1948 written by Hanna Diamond and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2015-10-23 with total page 246 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is the first book (in either English or French) to offer readers an overview of women's experience of the Second World War and its immediate aftermath in France. It examines objectively the part that women played in both collaboration and resistance, synthesising much recent scholarship on the subject in French and English, and drawing on the author's own extensive research (including oral testimony) in Toulouse, Paris, and West Brittany. The findings are complex, and the immensely varied testimony challenges easy generalisation. This will be relevant for courses on French studies, French and European history and Women's studies.
Download or read book Fashion ology written by Yuniya Kawamura and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2018-04-05 with total page 163 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This new edition of a classic work offers a concise introduction to the sociology of fashion, and demystifies the workings of the fashion system. From the origins of fashion studies and the difference between clothing and fashion, through to an examination of 21st century subcultures, and the impact of the digital age on designers, Fashion-ology explores fashion as a global, social construct. With accessible overviews of key debates, issues and perspectives, the book provides a complete exploration of the field, and features a wide range of international case studies which bring the theory to life. Updated with two new chapters on subcultures and the impact of technology, along with guides to further reading and a student guide to sociological research in fashion, this is essential reading for anyone studying fashion, sociology, anthropology, and cultural studies.
