Download or read book Infragravity Waves on the Continental Shelf written by Dimitrios Evangelidis and published by . This book was released on 1996 with total page 41 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The variability of infragravity frequency (0.004-0.04 Hz) motions on a wide continental shelf was examined with data from a 100km long transect of bottom pressure recorders extending from the beach (6m depth) to the shelf break (87m depth) near Duck, North Carolina. The observed infragravity motions are a mixture of forced waves, phase coupled to local wave groups, and (uncoupled) free waves. Although the contribution of forced waves to the infragravity energy increases with both increasing swell energy and decreasing water depth, the shelf is usually dominated by free waves. The observed free waves are predominantly radiated from nearby beaches. The strong attenuation of infragravity waves observed across the inner shelf is primarily the result of refractive trapping and is well described by a WKB model. Across the flatter, irregular outer shelf the observed attenuation is weaker but increases with increasing swell energy, suggesting that significant damping occurs on the shelf during storms, consistent with earlier studies. At the deepest instrumented sites, weaker correlations between infragravity and swell energy levels, and weaker depth dependence of infragravity energy levels are observed, suggesting that remotely generated waves are important seaward of the shelf break.

Download or read book A Review of the Theory of Oceanic Internal Waves Over the Continental Shelf written by J. L. Largier and published by . This book was released on 1986 with total page 268 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Infragravity Waves Over Topography written by and published by . This book was released on 2001 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Support from the Office of Naval Research (Coastal Geosciences Program, N00014-02-10145), the National Science Foundation (Physical Oceanography, OCE-0115850).

Download or read book Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone written by Kent K. Hathaway and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 100 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.

Download or read book Bottom Pressure Fluctuations on the Shelf Induced by Surface Waves written by and published by . This book was released on 1996 with total page 3 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This ONR grant, entitled 'Bottom Pressure Fluctuations on the Shelf Induced by Surface Waves', resulted in successful research concerning the dynamics of surface gravity waves on the broad continental shelf offshore of North Carolina. A transect of pressure sensors were deployed on the sea floor from the shoreline to the shelf break and data was acquired nearly continuously for 4 months during Fall 1994. The data includes energetic waves generated by Hurricane Gordon. These and previously acquired observations have been used to study nonlinearly forced waves at both double-wind wave frequencies and at low infragravity frequencies. The energy levels and wavenumbers of motions in both frequency bands are accurately predicted by weakly nonlinear theory. While the double-frequency pressure field is shown to be consistently dominated by forced wave motions, the observed infragravity waves are a mixture of locally excited forced waves and usually more energetic free waves. Ongoing research concerns the evolution of sea and swell propagating across the shelf.

Download or read book Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone written by Kent K. Hathaway and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 96 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.

Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

Download or read book Physical Oceanography of Continental Shelves written by K.H. Brink and published by Princeton University Press. This book was released on 2023-09-12 with total page 272 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "This book is intended as a graduate-level textbook and professional reference on the physical oceanography of the continental shelf and slope. Defined as water deeper than about three meters and shallower than a kilometer, this region of the ocean is important for a variety of scientific and practical reasons, from its high biological productivity and role in distributing outflows from the continents to its heavy usage in transportation and recreation. In recent years, research on the coastal ocean has expanded as the study of both short- and long-term anthropogenic change has become increasingly urgent. Yet there is no comprehensive treatment of the dynamics of this critical region. The book covers a range of topics involving currents and water properties, including turbulent boundary layers, wind driving, tides, buoyancy currents, waves, instabilities, and connections with the open, deep ocean. Brink's approach-informed by over a decade teaching the corresponding course in Woods Hole/MIT's joint program-centers on the dynamics of particular processes and combinations of processes, but also includes copious observational examples. Intended to be accessible to graduate students in a range of oceanographic specialties, the book assumes 2-3 years of university-level math and at least an introductory course in quantitative physical oceanography"--

Download or read book Treatise on Geomorphology written by and published by Academic Press. This book was released on 2013-02-27 with total page 6392 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The changing focus and approach of geomorphic research suggests that the time is opportune for a summary of the state of discipline. The number of peer-reviewed papers published in geomorphic journals has grown steadily for more than two decades and, more importantly, the diversity of authors with respect to geographic location and disciplinary background (geography, geology, ecology, civil engineering, computer science, geographic information science, and others) has expanded dramatically. As more good minds are drawn to geomorphology, and the breadth of the peer-reviewed literature grows, an effective summary of contemporary geomorphic knowledge becomes increasingly difficult. The fourteen volumes of this Treatise on Geomorphology will provide an important reference for users from undergraduate students looking for term paper topics, to graduate students starting a literature review for their thesis work, and professionals seeking a concise summary of a particular topic. Information on the historical development of diverse topics within geomorphology provides context for ongoing research; discussion of research strategies, equipment, and field methods, laboratory experiments, and numerical simulations reflect the multiple approaches to understanding Earth’s surfaces; and summaries of outstanding research questions highlight future challenges and suggest productive new avenues for research. Our future ability to adapt to geomorphic changes in the critical zone very much hinges upon how well landform scientists comprehend the dynamics of Earth’s diverse surfaces. This Treatise on Geomorphology provides a useful synthesis of the state of the discipline, as well as highlighting productive research directions, that Educators and students/researchers will find useful. Geomorphology has advanced greatly in the last 10 years to become a very interdisciplinary field. Undergraduate students looking for term paper topics, to graduate students starting a literature review for their thesis work, and professionals seeking a concise summary of a particular topic will find the answers they need in this broad reference work which has been designed and written to accommodate their diverse backgrounds and levels of understanding Editor-in-Chief, Prof. J. F. Shroder of the University of Nebraska at Omaha, is past president of the QG&G section of the Geological Society of America and present Trustee of the GSA Foundation, while being well respected in the geomorphology research community and having won numerous awards in the field. A host of noted international geomorphologists have contributed state-of-the-art chapters to the work. Readers can be guaranteed that every chapter in this extensive work has been critically reviewed for consistency and accuracy by the World expert Volume Editors and by the Editor-in-Chief himself No other reference work exists in the area of Geomorphology that offers the breadth and depth of information contained in this 14-volume masterpiece. From the foundations and history of geomorphology through to geomorphological innovations and computer modelling, and the past and future states of landform science, no "stone" has been left unturned!

Download or read book Continental Shelf Waves Over a Continental Slope written by Henry Dixon Sturr and published by . This book was released on 1969 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Investigation of Wave Grouping Effects on the Stability of Stone armored Rubble mound Breakwaters written by Robert D. Carver and published by . This book was released on 1994 with total page 370 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book A Summary of Research 1995 written by United States. Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA. and published by . This book was released on 1995 with total page 588 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Continental Shelf Waves Over a Continental Slope written by and published by . This book was released on 1969 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book On trapped waves over a continental shelf written by John M. Huthnance and published by . This book was released on 1975 with total page 16 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Underwater Continent written by Christie McFall and published by Dodd Mead. This book was released on 1975 with total page 130 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Examines the continental shelf areas of the world, their resources, and the technology developed to exploit these for man's future use.

Download or read book Elements of Physical Oceanography written by and published by Academic Press. This book was released on 2009-08-26 with total page 658 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Elements of Physical Oceanography is a derivative of the Encyclopedia of Ocean Sciences, Second Edition and serves as an important reference on current physical oceanography knowledge and expertise in one convenient and accessible source. Its selection of articles—all written by experts in their field—focuses on ocean physics, air-sea transfers, waves, mixing, ice, and the processes of transfer of properties such as heat, salinity, momentum and dissolved gases, within and into the ocean. Elements of Physical Oceanography serves as an ideal reference for topical research. References related articles in physical oceanography to facilitate further research Richly illustrated with figures and tables that aid in understanding key concepts Includes an introductory overview and then explores each topic in detail, making it useful to experts and graduate-level researchers Topical arrangement makes it the perfect desk reference

Download or read book Sediments Morphology and Sedimentary Processes on Continental Shelves written by Michael Z. Li and published by John Wiley & Sons. This book was released on 2012-02-20 with total page 442 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The application of multibeam and sediment transport measurement technologies and the adoption of multi-faceted research methodologies have greatly advanced our understanding of the sedimentary processes on continental shelves in the last decade. This book uniquely blends cutting-edge research and state-of-the art review articles that take stock of new advances in multibeam mapping and sediment transport technologies, spatial analysis and modelling, and the applications of these advances to the understanding of shelf sediments, morphodynamics, and sedimentary processes. Case studies are also presented to illustrate the utilization of seabed property and process knowledge in habitat mapping and ocean management With its mix of papers focusing on technological advances, integration of shelf morphology and processes, and the application of these advances to coastal and ocean management, this Special Publication volume will serve as a milestone reference for professional marine scientists and as advanced text for students in marine geology, sedimentology and oceanography. This book is part of the International Association of Sedimentologists (IAS) Special Publications. The Special Publications from the IAS are a set of thematic volumes edited by specialists on subjects of central interest to sedimentologists. Papers are reviewed and printed to the same high standards as those published in the journal Sedimentology and several of these volumes have become standard works of reference.