Download or read book How Green Was Our Wave written by Kevin Cavey and published by Trafford Publishing. This book was released on 2017-10-17 with total page 183 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: 1970, Irish team competes in Jersey Channel Islands. Left to right: Harry Evans, Dave Kenny, Hugh O’Brien Moran, David Govan, Roger Steadman, Eamon Matthews, Bo Vance, Kevin Cavey, Alan Duke. This nostalgic story takes one back to the beginning of surfing in Ireland, which was hammered into reality by one ambitious youth attempting to live the dream. He was entranced by the Hawaiian Islands and sunny California and thus yearned to make Ireland in that image. This meant expanding the sport and putting Ireland on the world map of surfing nations, and that’s just what happened. Much of this was inspired by his reading an article in the 1962 edition of Reader’s Digest. The story depicted surfers in Oahu on head-high waves, just like the waves in Ireland, he thought! As he went, he gathered supporters and soon formed Ireland’s first surf club. In March 1966, they mounted an exhibit stand in at the Irish Boat Show. At this show valuable contacts were made that were to become lifelong. His club went on a series of surfaris around the coast and introduced the sport in such places as Strandhill, Rossnowlagh, and Tramore. He then competed in the 1966 World Surfing Championships in San Diego and, with his colleagues, staged the first Irish Surfing Championships in Tramore, County Waterford, in September of 1967. The story tells of the people who responded to the clarion call and just how proficient these surfers were to become. It also relates comical yarns, told by the people they met on their way, and also the encounters that early surfers experienced as they attempted to make fiberglass boards—and then try them in the heaving ocean. The book concludes with a look at the 2006 Silver Surfari celebrating the fifty years of the sport. Old timers returned for the event held in Lahinch, County Clare, and Rossnowlagh, County Donegal. All this was done because it was felt that before the passage of time dimmed memories of old, it was good to rally those icons to whom so much is owed.
Download or read book The Wave written by Susan Casey and published by Anchor Canada. This book was released on 2011-05-31 with total page 434 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.
Download or read book Deep in the Wave written by Bear Woznick and published by Hachette UK. This book was released on 2012-07-10 with total page 116 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For world-class surfer Bear Woznick, the ocean has always been the center of his universe. He's spent his entire life with it; riding its waves, learning from it, loving it. The ocean also nourishes the soul as Bear shows us on his surfboard. In DEEP IN THE WAVE, readers ride along with Woznick through the calmest of tides and most turbulent waves. Woznick's portrayal of the beauty and power of the ocean is truly inspiring and showcases the profound meaning surfing has had on his life. From the way a surfboard is painstakingly crafted, to the faith and patience that is required to ride a monster wave, Woznick weaves his relationship to surfing with his relationship to God, relating how the two are often one in the same. Instead of standing on the shore with our toes in the surf, Woznick takes us on the board--to the deep water--to watch and wait--and, if need be, to paddle hard to survive.
Download or read book My Life with the Wave written by Octavio Paz and published by Harper Collins. This book was released on 1997-07 with total page 42 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A boy befriends a wave at the seashore and brings her home.
Download or read book Wave written by Sonali Deraniyagala and published by McClelland & Stewart. This book was released on 2013-03-05 with total page 146 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A brave, intimate, beautifully crafted memoir by a survivor of the tsunami that struck the Sri Lankan coast in 2004 and took her entire family. On December 26, Boxing Day, Sonali Deraniyagala, her English husband, her parents, her two young sons, and a close friend were ending Christmas vacation at the seaside resort of Yala on the south coast of Sri Lanka when a wave suddenly overtook them. She was only to learn later that this was a tsunami that devastated coastlines through Southeast Asia. When the water began to encroach closer to their hotel, they began to run, but in an instant, water engulfed them, Sonali was separated from her family, and all was lost. Sonali Deraniyagala has written an extraordinarily honest, utterly engrossing account of the surreal tragedy of a devastating event that all at once ended her life as she knew it and her journey since in search of understanding and redemption. It is also a remarkable portrait of a young family's life and what came before, with all the small moments and larger dreams that suddenly and irrevocably ended.
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Download or read book The Sixth Wave written by James Bradfield Moody and published by ReadHowYouWant.com. This book was released on 2010 with total page 406 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Originally published: Vintage/Random House Australia, 2010, 2010.
Download or read book Under The Wave At Waimea written by Paul Theroux and published by HarperCollins. This book was released on 2021-04-13 with total page 421 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “Theroux’s work is like no one else’s.” –Francine Prose, New York Times Book Review From legendary writer Paul Theroux comes an atmospheric novel following a big-wave surfer as he confronts aging, privilege, mortality, and whose lives we choose to remember. Now in his sixties, big-wave surfer Joe Sharkey has passed his prime and is losing his “stoke.” The younger surfers around the breaks on the north shore of Oahu still idolize the Shark, but his sponsors are looking elsewhere. One night, while driving home from a bar after one too many, Joe accidentally kills a stranger near Waimea, a tragedy that sends his life out of control. As the repercussions of the accident spiral ever wider, Joe's devoted girlfriend, Olive, throws herself into uncovering the dead man’s identity and helping Joe find vitality and refuge in the waves again. Set in the lush, gritty underside of an island paradise readers rarely see, UNDER THE WAVE AT WAIMEA offers a dramatic, affecting commentary on privilege, mortality, and the lives we choose to remember. It is a masterstroke by one of the greatest writers of our time.
Download or read book The Book of Funnels written by Christian Hawkey and published by Wave Books. This book was released on 2004 with total page 88 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book marks the debut of a startling new voice that restlessly transforms self and surroundings in every poem.
Download or read book The Great Wave of Tamarind written by Nadia Aguiar and published by Macmillan + ORM. This book was released on 2017-03-28 with total page 301 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Penny Nelson grew up listening to her older sister and brother recount their adventures in Tamarind, a magical island not found on any map, but she sometimes she can't tell which of her memories are hers and which are theirs. After drifting out to sea, Penny once again finds herself on the shores of Tamarind. But things are wrong on the island: portals lead to treacherous places, a strange creature is wreaking havoc, and a Great Wave is coming to bring the Bloom, magic that can stabilize the island. Whoever completes three challenges gets to catch the Bloom—and keep some of that life-changing magic for their own use. To save Tamarind and collect the magic, Penny has to brave dark ocean depths, survive the perils of the jungle, and outwit a cunning creature bent on bringing chaos. Don't miss The Great Wave of Tamarind, the stunning conclusion to Nadia Aguiar's critically acclaimed middle-grade trilogy!
Download or read book Baltimore Lectures on Molecular Dynamics and the Wave Theory of Light written by Lord William Thomson Kelvin and published by CUP Archive. This book was released on 1904 with total page 732 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Baltimore Lectures on Molecular Dynamics and the Wave Theory of Light written by William Thomson, Baron Kelvin and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-05-20 with total page 734 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Lectures describing the problems in explaining light propagation which inspired Einstein's theory of special relativity.
Download or read book Waves and Beaches written by Willard Bascom and published by Anchor. This book was released on 1980 with total page 528 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book A Hole in the Bottom of the Sea written by Willard Bascom and published by . This book was released on 1961 with total page 426 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Say Her Name written by Francisco Goldman and published by Grove/Atlantic, Inc.. This book was released on 2011-04-05 with total page 369 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Pulitzer Prize–finalist’s intimate autobiographical novel of a marriage cut tragically short is “a beautiful love story, and an extraordinary story of loss” (Colm Tóibín). In 2005, celebrated novelist Francisco Goldman married Aura Estrada. The two were deeply in love, and Aura was a gifted young writer on the cusp of her own brilliant career. But while on vacation only a month before their second anniversary, Aura died in a tragic accident. In Say Her Name, Goldman pours his feelings of love and unspeakable grief into a fictionalized account of their brief time together. Desperate to keep Aura alive in his memory, Goldman collects everything he can about her, delving deeply into the writings she left behind. From her childhood and university days in Mexico City to her studies at Columbia University, through the couple’s time in New York City and travels to Europe, Goldman composes a vivid and multifaceted portrait. Filled with “propulsive drama” (The Boston Globe), Say Her Name is a tribute to who Aura Estrada was and who she would’ve been, that “will also transport you into the most primal joy in the human repertoire—the joy of loving—and reveal it with aching vibrancy” (San Francisco Chronicle).
Download or read book Big Wave Surfer written by Kai Lenny and published by Rizzoli Publications. This book was released on 2021-10-26 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.
Download or read book Report of the Annual Meeting written by British Association for the Advancement of Science. Meeting and published by . This book was released on 1847 with total page 718 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
