Download or read book Experimental and Analytical Investigations of Solitary Waves on a Beach written by Nimish Pujara and published by . This book was released on 2015 with total page 416 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This thesis presents theoretical and experimental investigations of the flow on a beach, i.e., the swash, due to solitary waves with the objective of understanding the flow processes that govern complex coastal hydrodynamics. The bed shear stress is identified as an important quantity and consequently, a shear plate sensor is developed to make accurate measurements of the bed shear stress. Its size is designed to be small enough to give spatially local measurements and its bandwidth high enough to resolve time-varying forcing due to waves. Typically, shear plate sensors are restricted to zero pressure gradient flows because secondary forces on the edge of the shear plate caused by pressure gradients can introduce large errors. To address this issue, a theory is developed to analyze the pressure distribution at the edges of the shear plate and a new methodology is introduced for correcting for the pressure gradient force. Experimental results are presented that show that this methodology improves the accuracy of the sensor. The swash flow created by solitary waves beyond the stillwater shoreline on a plane, impermeable beach is studied. Measurements of the bed shear stress, flow velocities, water depths, bed pressure and shoreline motion are presented for a wide range of incident solitary waves that span different regimes of wave breaking. The flow evolution due to breaking solitary waves is found to be a gravity-driven flow that is scaled by the initial velocity of the shoreline, which, in turn, is shown to be predicted by measurements of wave height near the stillwater shoreline. Experimental results are presented that show how different wave breaking regimes influence the initial shoreline velocity, the swash flow evolution, the run-up and the time period of the swash. Time-histories of the bed shear stress are also presented, but a new normalization for the peak values of the bed shear stress using the initial shoreline velocity shows the crossshore variation of bed shear stress and the influence of different wave breaking regimes. The effects of bed friction are found to significantly alter the flow in the leading edge of the swash, near the moving shoreline. A theory is developed that considers the leading order dynamical balance in the swash tip, treating it in a bulk sense. Predictions of the shoreline motion from the theory compare very well to the measured shoreline motion. Experiments are also conducted to study the interaction between successive solitary waves incident on a beach. Two cases are examined: a strongly interacting case and a weakly interacting case. The parameters relevant to predicting the strength of interaction between the swash of successive solitary waves are given. Measurements of bed shear stress, bed pressure and velocity are also used to explain the complex boundary layer dynamics that occur in the interaction of the swash flows due to successive waves.
Download or read book An Investigation of the Deformation and Breaking of Solitary Waves written by Frederick E. Camfield and published by . This book was released on 1967 with total page 150 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: It is proposed that solitary waves can be used as the initial wave shape to simulate the shoaling, breaking and run-up of large, long waves on a beach. Experiments were conducted with solitary waves to determine criteria for wave growth, celerity, breaking height and run-up on various beach slopes. In addition, limited investigations were made of reflected bores, effects of variations in the bottom profile, and the effect of multiple slopes, i.e., one slope followed by a second, higher slope, on the breaking and run-up of solitary waves. Further considerations are given to the method of characteristics as a means of analyzing shoaling waves. A qualitative analysis is presented of the effect of vertical acceleration terms on the solution. A comparison is made with other analytical solutions for shoaling waves. The experimental results are tabulated and plotted comparisons of the experimental results and the various analytical methods for shoaling waves are presented. (Author).
Download or read book An Experimental and Analytical Investigation of Wave Interaction with an Offshore Submerged Cylindrical Structure written by Gustavo Zarruk and published by . This book was released on 2005 with total page 490 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Experimental and Analytical Studies of Wave Forces on Offshore Structures written by Donald R. F. Harleman and published by . This book was released on 1955 with total page 138 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Extreme Ocean Waves written by Efim Pelinovsky and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2008-06-27 with total page 200 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Extreme, freak or rogue waves are produced by a number of physical mechanisms that focus the water-wave energy into a small area, due to wave instability, chaotic behaviour, dispersion (frequency modulation), refraction (presence of variable currents or bottom topography), soliton interactions, etc. During the past thirty years a number of physical models of the rogue wave phenomenon have been intensively developed. Numerous experimental, statistical and theoretical investigations are intended to understand the physics of the huge wave formation, its relation to the environmental conditions and to provide a freak wave design for engineering purposes. The book details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of freak waves due to modulation instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of rogue wave generation in deep water and in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between observations and freak wave theories. The book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.
Download or read book An Experimental Investigation of Internal Solitary Waves written by Ella Pascoe and published by . This book was released on 2024 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Laboratory Investigation of the Vertical Rise of Solitary Waves on Impermeable Slopes written by United States. Beach Erosion Board and published by . This book was released on 1953 with total page 20 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Selected Water Resources Abstracts written by and published by . This book was released on 1979 with total page 776 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Water Resources Research written by United States. Congress. Senate. Committee on Interior and Insular Affairs and published by . This book was released on 1962 with total page 464 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Report written by United States. National Bureau of Standards and published by . This book was released on 1968 with total page 696 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Water Resources Research Memorandum of the Chairman Transmitting Reports of Federal Department written by United States. Congress. Senate. Interior and Insular Affairs and published by . This book was released on 1962 with total page 460 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Coastal estuarine and Nearshore Processes written by Evelyn Sinha and published by . This book was released on 1974 with total page 240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book NBS Special Publication written by and published by . This book was released on 1954 with total page 416 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Technical Report written by Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Hydrodynamics Laboratory and published by . This book was released on 1960 with total page 132 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Technical Report written by and published by . This book was released on 1959 with total page 126 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Hydraulic Research in the United States written by and published by . This book was released on 1961 with total page 230 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book List of Publications of the U S Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station written by U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station and published by . This book was released on 1965 with total page 128 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
