Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Download or read book Natural Surf Technique written by Frank Caronna and published by . This book was released on 2014-10-17 with total page 82 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: I wrote this book with the confidence of 25 years teaching and coaching surfing and feel I have established a technique that will help beginner to intermediate surfers learn and reach their potential faster while staying safe and respectful to other surfers and the ocean. I have used my techniques to help surfers of all levels while keeping in mind the different body types people have and hope you enjoy the techniques and teachings the book provides. You can view the slide up technique and a few other things I teach in the book on YouTube under Natural Surf Technique to better help you understand and connect the techniques better. Enjoy and better safer surfing, Frank Caronna(Author owner and surf coach for Natural Surf Technique)

Download or read book The Now Effect written by Elisha Goldstein and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2012-02-21 with total page 290 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Dr. Goldstein takes the mindfulness approach of helping people to connect to the present moment one step further by offering practical techniques to make deep, permanent life changes and alleviate stress, ease pain, and cultivate emotional freedom.

Download or read book Kook written by Peter Heller and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2010-07-13 with total page 336 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

Download or read book The Promise of Surfing Rainbows Storybook written by P.D.M Dolce and published by Balboa Press. This book was released on 2016-03-04 with total page 123 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: We are the Rainbow Surfers. Come and join us on this amazing adventure on the river of life! If you are ready, the promise within The Promise of Surfing Rainbows is about to be revealed Let the Rainbow Surfers show you how to attract the very best that life has to offer! Having spent until the age of thirty-two working in the wrong jobs, married to the wrong partner, driving the wrong car, and living the wrong life, I can categorically tell you that the wonderful message from Surfing Rainbows, that you can love your life and that you can live your dreams, is not only inspirational, it is also deadly accurate. As a young, working-class man, I was told by my peers that people like us do not become artists, they do not write books, and they certainly do not have films made about their lives. I wrote my first book in a factory toilet where I was hired to sweep floors. My world was so small that I did not even know anyone that owned a typewriter. And yet that first book, Watch My Back, still went on to become a Sunday Times Best Seller and a BAFTA-winning film. I am an ordinary personlet us have no doubt about that. So if I can attract an amazing life, I know that anyone can do it. I wish Id have known about Surfing Rainbows way back when I started; it would have saved me a lot of time. I love this beautifully presented book. I love this inspirational message, and I highly recommend this work to anyone wanting to live a successful life. Geoff Thompson

Download or read book Surf Is Where You Find It written by Gerry Lopez and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2015-04-17 with total page 571 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

Download or read book Let My People Go Surfing written by Yvon Chouinard and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2006-09-05 with total page 276 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Yvon Chouinard-legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.-shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike. A newly revised edition of Let My People Go Surfing is available now. From the Trade Paperback edition.

Download or read book Flipped written by John and published by Agate Publishing. This book was released on 2010-04-13 with total page 147 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Branding is done — in today's business and marketing world, it's all about bottom-up co-creation to ensure real marketing effectiveness and product success. Marketing expert John Winsor makes a powerful case that instead of focusing on traditional branding efforts, companies must learn to use "co-creation" tools to work from the bottom up to create new products, services, and marketing strategies in collaboration with their customers. Today, it's all about getting out in the streets and spending time with the right customers, in their worlds, to create the essential foundations for breakthrough innovation. He takes readers deep into this new kind of customer-company relationship, providing useful case studies as well as practical step-by-step methods to engage these key voices in dialogues that fuel real innovation. Readers will learn how to develop a true bottom-up co-creation strategy and hone the intuition and inspiration that drive innovation.

Download or read book DI Helen Grace written by M. J. Arlidge and published by Penguin UK. This book was released on 2017-03-30 with total page 2400 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: 'Detective Inspector Helen Grace is one of the greatest heroes to come along in years' Jeffery Deaver M J Arlidge's D I Helen Grace Ebook Bundle contains the following: Eeny Meeny Pop Goes the Weasel The Doll's House Liar Liar Little Boy Blue Hide and Seek

Download or read book The Average Surfer s Guide written by Simon Short and published by Createspace Independent Publishing Platform. This book was released on 2018-11-14 with total page 148 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Heart warming read that discusses depression, radical life change, and muses on the plight of the lifelong intermediate... grab a copy on Amazon" - David Lee Scales, Surf Splendor Podcast "I can recommend this book for non-surfers as much as surfers. It goes a long way towards explaining the hook that keeps people addicted to surfing and provides some personal lessons that can be applied to all walks of life" - Charlie Spurr - The Museum of British Surfing "Once I started reading, I couldn't put it down. The writing is wonderful and Simon really nails it when he defines what an average surfer is and how surfing affects us all" - Imi Barneaud, The Ocean Riders Podcast "Short uses the term "average" not as in mediocre, but to make it relatable to the masses of surfers who are not professionals, and not beginners, but the wave-riders in between. He teaches life lessons with every chapter. You can be scared, intimidated, proud and brave, all in one session" - The Orange County Register From the author of "A Story about Surfing, Identity and Depression" comes the #1 New Release 'The Average Surfer's Guide' The Average Surfer's Guide to Travel, Waves and Progression is a book about surfing as much as it is about mental health, life balance and prioritizing one's passions. The author explores the metaphysical effects of surfing, the biological effects of surfing and how the sport, percolated into a lifestyle opens us up to travel, adventure, community and a true belonging and identity. The book takes us into situations that many are familiar with, but few of us speak of. Short bravely shares details from his darker days fighting a severe depression before learning some valuable life lessons. "Simon Short sat at the end of a Newport Beach rock jetty in the darkness, clutching a gun and ready to end his life as his depression hit an all-time low. For years, Short thought he was on the right track. The surfer from England moved to California after visiting for a surf trip in his early 20s, met a girl who became his wife and had a career as a police officer near Palm Springs. This was what he was supposed to do, right? When it all came crashing down a few years later, he found himself staring out into the ocean, the place that had been his one constant source of solace since he was a teen." Feb 2019 - The OC Register The Average Surfer's Guide takes a unique approach by forgetting the glamour of professional surfing and telling honest, humorous and engaging stories from a true, every-day, average surfer. The book teaches us how to progress away from complacency, both in our surfing and our everyday lives. In the end, this book will make you a better surfer. Not through technique but through teaching a new mindset and outlook towards life and surfing. The Average Surfer's Guide takes us on a journey from dark to light and teaches us how to live a true, balanced life that is authentic to who we are and what makes us happy. In this case, surfing.

Download or read book Dark Chaos Book 1 written by Chrissy Peebles and published by Dark Shadows Publishing. This book was released on with total page 142 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is a five book, fantasy adventure and Sci Fi series. The dream vacation that might just turn deadly... Seventeen-year-old Casey Smith can't wait to embark on her summer vacation, not least because she's finally shed her tomboy image, and now heartthrob Mike seems interested. What starts out great, with lots of flirting, taking her a step closer to winning her crush's heart, soon turns into her worst nightmare. Tossed out to sea during a freak storm, Casey is washed up on what she presumes to be a mysterious tropical island that's on no map she's ever seen. With creatures that should've been extinct thousands of years ago, Casey fights for survival. Can they find a way to escape and get back home? Teen & Young Adult, Romance, Love, Action & Adventure, Fantasy, coming of age, dark fantasy, Chrissy Peebles, Crush, mystery, series, Young Adult, fantasy, Popular Page-Turners, shipwrecked, island, mysterious island, creatures, dinosaurs, thriller, action, adventure, fantasy adventure, science fiction, sci fi, fantasy romance, storm, castaway, action, coming of age, coming of age fantasy series, coming of age paranormal series, fantasy series, first love, forbidden love, new adult fantasy, new adult romance, new adult scifi, new adult science fiction, Paranormal, paranormal fantasy, paranormal romance, paranormal romance series, romantic suspense, science fiction romance, SciFi romance, speculative fiction, strong female, strong female protagonist, teen, teens, teen love, teen romance, urban fantasy, urban fantasy paranormal suspense, urban scifi, urban science fiction, YA, young adult, young adult coming of age fantasy, young adult fantasy mystery, young adult fantasy series, young adult modern fantasy, young adult science fiction, young adult science fiction romance, young adult urban fantasy, free, free science fiction, Freebie, free book, free ebook, free novel, Permafree, free reads, free first in series, free, free books, free novels

Download or read book Leadership and The Art of Surfing written by Rick Hansen and published by Xulon Press. This book was released on 2011-12 with total page 292 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Hyperbole and a Half written by Allie Brosh and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2013-10-29 with total page 288 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: #1 New York Times Bestseller “Funny and smart as hell” (Bill Gates), Allie Brosh’s Hyperbole and a Half showcases her unique voice, leaping wit, and her ability to capture complex emotions with deceptively simple illustrations. FROM THE PUBLISHER: Every time Allie Brosh posts something new on her hugely popular blog Hyperbole and a Half the internet rejoices. This full-color, beautifully illustrated edition features more than fifty percent new content, with ten never-before-seen essays and one wholly revised and expanded piece as well as classics from the website like, “The God of Cake,” “Dogs Don’t Understand Basic Concepts Like Moving,” and her astonishing, “Adventures in Depression,” and “Depression Part Two,” which have been hailed as some of the most insightful meditations on the disease ever written. Brosh’s debut marks the launch of a major new American humorist who will surely make even the biggest scrooge or snob laugh. We dare you not to. FROM THE AUTHOR: This is a book I wrote. Because I wrote it, I had to figure out what to put on the back cover to explain what it is. I tried to write a long, third-person summary that would imply how great the book is and also sound vaguely authoritative—like maybe someone who isn’t me wrote it—but I soon discovered that I’m not sneaky enough to pull it off convincingly. So I decided to just make a list of things that are in the book: Pictures Words Stories about things that happened to me Stories about things that happened to other people because of me Eight billion dollars* Stories about dogs The secret to eternal happiness* *These are lies. Perhaps I have underestimated my sneakiness!

Download or read book After Surfing Ocean Beach written by Mary Soderstrom and published by Dundurn. This book was released on 2004-04-27 with total page 228 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Rick doesn't have time to think. He plunges his knife into the stranger's gut, believing he is defending himself from an attacker. But Rick is wrong about the man's intentions, and as he flees the scene, the innocent man bleeds to death, leaving Rick horrified by what he has done. It is a moment of panic that changes Rick's life forever. It is also a moment that brings Rick face to face with his past, as we soon discover that the slain man was not a stranger after all.

Download or read book Hedging His Bets written by Laura Carter and published by Lyrical Press. This book was released on 2018-05-22 with total page 246 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “Carter's writing style is absolutely brilliant.” —The Romance Reviews A high-flying investor New Yorker Jake Harrington loves a lot of things about living in London. His lucrative hedge fund job. The way British women melt at the sound of an American accent. His just-sex arrangement with his gorgeous roommate, Jess. And, oh yes, being thousands of miles away from the girl who betrayed him. His sexy British flatmate Jess’s deal with Jake suits her fine. No commitments, no risk of being hurt again, just friendship and mindblowing pleasure. And friends do each other favors, like agreeing to go on a trip to New York where Jake will have to face his past. And a vacation that will change everything... What friends shouldn’t do? Suddenly find themselves feeling something much more complicated than simple lust. When “no strings” is no longer enough, will Jake be willing to take the ultimate gamble?

Download or read book She Surf written by Lauren L. Hill and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2020 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Join the celebration of the diverse, vibrant, and engaged community of women riding and making waves around the globe. While surfing is usually seen as a male domain, women have long been nurturing their own water stories and claiming their rightful place in the world of this sport. She Surf hails the females, past and present, who are engaged in expanding the art of surfing. Through exclusive interviews and evocative imagery, the book travels from the iconic waves of Hawaii to remote locations in Morocco. Learn about the forgotten stories of Polynesian surfing princesses, pioneering wave riders from the 1960s, and the contemporary movers and shakers shaping the scene. This book is an exciting reflection on what it means to be a female surfer and what it means to be moved to action by the beauty of the sea.

Download or read book Raw Blue written by Kirsty Eagar and published by Penguin UK. This book was released on 2009-06-29 with total page 255 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Award-winning novelby Kirsty Eagar, author of Saltwater Vampires and Night Beach. Raw Blue was awardedthe 2010 Victorian Premier's Literary Awards Young Adult Fiction prize. Readersof Tim Winton's Breathwill be drawn to Raw Blue, an achingly beautiful young adult novel set in Sydney's northern beaches.Winner of the 2010 Victorian Premier's Literary Awards, it is a haunting storyabout finding your passion in life. Carly has dropped out of uni to spend her days surfing and her nights working as a cook in a Manly cafe. Surfing is the one thing she loves doing ... and the only thing that helps her stop thinking about what happened two years ago. Then she meets Ryan and Carly has to decide.Will shelet the past bury her? Orcan shelet go of her anger and shame, and find the courage to be happy? Check out Kirsty Eagar'swebsite at www.kirstyeagar.com,and read herblogto find out about her thoughts on books, writing, music, surfing, and finding inspiration, or visit betweenthelines.com.au -the destination for Young Adult books. Praise for Raw Blue: 'Kirsty Eagar's fearless Raw Blue, a story of regeneration set on Sydney's northern beaches, is much more than just a promising debut: this one delivers.' Australian Book Review Best Books of 2009: Critics' Choices 'Kirsty Eagar's first novel explores dark territory with skill and sensitivity.' The Age 'An emotionally rich and powerful first novel.' Canberra Times 'If you only read one book this year ... it should be Kirsty Eagar's Raw Blue one of those kept-me-up-all-night novels that stays in your bones and sings in your ears long after you've finished it. It wouldn't be out of place next to Tim Winton's Breath, except this is the ocean as healer, not as an object to be conquered, or the site of self-destruction, of risk. The images crackle, the lines are full of the poetry of observation, the story is searing, gutting, beautiful. This should be compulsory reading for all teenagers especially boys.' julialawrinson.livejournal.com 'This is a psychologically intense novel that involves even non-surfing readers in the release Carly feels when conquering the waves we empathise with her in the long battle between desire and fear on the path to self-acceptance.' Magpies 'I read this book feverishly, desperate for a happy ending, and afterwards found it difficult to get Carly and the men who ride into her life out of my mind.' Newcastle Herald '[a] very moving book It's dark subject matter, but Eagar makes it uplifting.' Sunday Territorian 'A memorable first book by a writer who gives an honest approach to what young adults face growing up and growing wiser.' Woman's Day Read of the Week