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Book California Surfriders  1946

Download or read book California Surfriders 1946 written by Doc Ball and published by . This book was released on 1946-01-01 with total page 116 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Early California Surfriders

Download or read book Early California Surfriders written by and published by . This book was released on 1995 with total page 103 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book LEGENDARY SURFERS Volume 3  The 1930s

Download or read book LEGENDARY SURFERS Volume 3 The 1930s written by Malcolm Gault-Williams and published by Lulu.com. This book was released on 2012-12-12 with total page 267 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "LEGENDARY SURFERS Volume 3: 1930s" details the surf world of the 1930s, including California, Florida, Hawaii, Australia and Britain. This is not a coffee table book. It is specifically written for surfers who want to know the details of the heritage we are blessed to share, as told by those who lived it.

Book The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

Book The History of Surfing

Download or read book The History of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2011-04-29 with total page 497 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This in-depth, photo-packed look at the history and culture of surfers is “meticulously researched, smartly written . . . required reading” (Outside Magazine). Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. With more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of Warshaw’s endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who are brought to life in this book in many tales of daring, innovation, athletic achievement, and the offbeat personalities who have made surfing history happen. “The world’s most comprehensive chronicler of the surfing scene.” —Andy Martin, The Independent

Book Surf and Rescue

    Book Details:
  • Author : Patrick Moser
  • Publisher : University of Illinois Press
  • Release : 2022-06-28
  • ISBN : 0252053443
  • Pages : 295 pages

Download or read book Surf and Rescue written by Patrick Moser and published by University of Illinois Press. This book was released on 2022-06-28 with total page 295 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The mixed-race Hawaiian athlete George Freeth brought surfing to Venice, California, in 1907. Over the next twelve years, Freeth taught Southern Californians to surf and swim while creating a modern lifeguard service that transformed the beach into a destination for fun, leisure, and excitement. Patrick Moser places Freeth’s inspiring life story against the rise of the Southern California beach culture he helped shape and define. Freeth made headlines with his rescue of seven fishermen, an act of heroism that highlighted his innovative lifeguarding techniques. But he also founded California's first surf club and coached both male and female athletes, including Olympic swimming champion and “father of modern surfing” Duke Kahanamoku. Often in financial straits, Freeth persevered as a teacher and lifeguarding pioneer--building a legacy that endured long after his death during the 1919 influenza pandemic. A compelling merger of biography and sports history, Surf and Rescue brings to light the forgotten figure whose novel way of seeing the beach sparked the imaginations of people around the world.

Book Leroy Grannis

    Book Details:
  • Author : LeRoy Grannis
  • Publisher : Taschen America Llc
  • Release : 2007
  • ISBN : 9783822848593
  • Pages : 276 pages

Download or read book Leroy Grannis written by LeRoy Grannis and published by Taschen America Llc. This book was released on 2007 with total page 276 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: La vague parfaite sous l'œil de la caméra. Le surf connut ses premières heures de gloire continentale dans les années 1950, sur la côte californienne, où il se mua rapidement en un véritable " style de vie " avant d'être admiré puis exporté aux quatre coins du globe. Le photographe sportif LeRoy Grannis fut l'un des principaux témoins et acteurs de cette génération : surfeur depuis 1931, il commença à fixer sur la pellicule le quotidien des surfeurs californiens et hawaïens au début des années 1960. Cette impressionnante collection de photos tirées des archives personnelles de l'auteur nous dévoile toute une palette d'impressions et de souvenirs de ces petits ou grands événements qui ont écrit l'histoire du surf, depuis les premiers ballets élégants des longboarders de San Onofre jusqu'aux prouesses des casse-cou d'Oahu, sur la côte nord d'Hawaï. Tout aussi remarquables sont ses précieux témoignages iconographiques sur la naissance d'un style de vie propre au surf - ici, un stomp improvisé en marge d'une compétition, là un pick-up Chevy bondé de planches sur la Pacific Coast Highway -, incarnations de l'esprit de liberté de cette époque dorée qui s'est achevée avec la révolution du shortboard et la mainmise du vedettariat sur une discipline jusque-là réservée à un cercle de gentlemen.

Book The Whole Ocean Catalog

    Book Details:
  • Author : Craig Lockwood
  • Publisher : HP Books
  • Release : 1986
  • ISBN : 9780895865991
  • Pages : 276 pages

Download or read book The Whole Ocean Catalog written by Craig Lockwood and published by HP Books. This book was released on 1986 with total page 276 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Pacific Passages

    Book Details:
  • Author : Patrick Moser
  • Publisher : University of Hawaii Press
  • Release : 2008-05-08
  • ISBN : 0824863836
  • Pages : 353 pages

Download or read book Pacific Passages written by Patrick Moser and published by University of Hawaii Press. This book was released on 2008-05-08 with total page 353 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A thousand years after Hawaiians first paddled long wooden boards into the ocean, modern surfers have continued this practice, which has recently been transformed into a global industry. Pacific Passages brings together four centuries of writing about surfing, the most comprehensive collection of Polynesian and Western perspectives on the history and culture of a sport currently enjoyed by millions of people around the world. The stories begin with Hawaiian legends and chants and are followed by the journals of explorers; the travel narratives of missionaries and luminaries such as Herman Melville, Mark Twain, and Jack London; and the contemporary observations of Tom Wolfe, William Finnegan, Susan Orlean, and Bob Shacochis. Readers follow the historical transformation of surfing’s image through the centuries: from Polynesian myths of love to Western accounts of horror and exoticism in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, to modern representations of surfing as a character-building activity in pre-World-War II California and the quintessential expression of disaffected youth. They explore the sport’s most recent trends by writers and cultural critics, whose insights into technology, competition, gender, heritage, and globalism reveal how surfing impacts some of today’s most pressing social concerns. Aided by informative introductions, the writings in Pacific Passages provide insight into the values and ideals of Polynesian and Western cultures, revealing how each has altered and been altered by surfing—and how the sport itself has shown an amazing ability throughout the centuries to survive, adapt, and prosper.

Book Waikiki Dreams

    Book Details:
  • Author : Patrick Moser
  • Publisher : University of Illinois Press
  • Release : 2024-06-11
  • ISBN : 0252056787
  • Pages : 226 pages

Download or read book Waikiki Dreams written by Patrick Moser and published by University of Illinois Press. This book was released on 2024-06-11 with total page 226 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Despite a genuine admiration for Native Hawaiian culture, white Californians of the 1930s ignored authentic relationships with Native Hawaiians. Surfing became a central part of what emerged instead: a beach culture of dressing, dancing, and acting like an Indigenous people whites idealized. Patrick Moser uses surfing to open a door on the cultural appropriation practiced by Depression-era Californians against a backdrop of settler colonialism and white nationalism. Recreating the imagined leisure and romance of life in Waikīkī attracted people buffeted by economic crisis and dislocation. California-manufactured objects like surfboards became a physical manifestation of a dream that, for all its charms, emerged from a white impulse to both remove and replace Indigenous peoples. Moser traces the rise of beach culture through the lives of trendsetters Tom Blake, John “Doc” Ball, Preston “Pete” Peterson, Mary Ann Hawkins, and Lorrin “Whitey” Harrison while also delving into California’s control over images of Native Hawaiians via movies, tourism, and the surfboard industry. Compelling and innovative, Waikīkī Dreams opens up the origins of a defining California subculture.

Book Hermosa Beach

    Book Details:
  • Author : Chris Miller
  • Publisher : Arcadia Publishing
  • Release : 2005
  • ISBN : 9780738529745
  • Pages : 132 pages

Download or read book Hermosa Beach written by Chris Miller and published by Arcadia Publishing. This book was released on 2005 with total page 132 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Hermosa Beach has been one of Los Angeles County's most eclectic summertime destinations for vacationing families, surfers, sunbathers, fishermen, volleyball players, and other beachgoers. They ranged from students in search of one crazy summer to their spiritual forefathers and mothers who came, saw, and stayed year-round. The city grew through the 20th century from a train stop into a vital mix of residential housing with businesses strung along Pacific Coast Highway. The city has been homey enough to accommodate statesman William Jennings Bryant and television's iconic Ozzie and Harriet Nelson. Its nationally recognized nightclubs and other venues included the Biltmore Hotel; the Comedy & Magic Club; and the legendary Lighthouse, home of West Coast jazz.

Book Maverick s

    Book Details:
  • Author : Matt Warshaw
  • Publisher : Chronicle Books
  • Release : 2003-10-09
  • ISBN : 9780811841597
  • Pages : 272 pages

Download or read book Maverick s written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2003-10-09 with total page 272 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With its massive faces, punishing rocks, and treacherous currents, Maverick's presents a surfing challenge like no other. Author Matt Warshaw has updated his critically acclaimed illustrated history of Maverick's to cover important recent developments, and we've added a fresh new cover to kick this edition off in style. "A fascinating account," to quote Surfer magazine, it takes "a cue from Sebastian Junger's The Perfect Storm...Warshaw focused on a single event...and expands on it to illuminate an entire culture and its world beyond waves." The event was the death of celebrated surfer Mark Foo, one of those who congregate every winter to test themselves in the dark, foreboding waters. And what unfolds in Maverick's is no less than the story of big-wave surfing, from its ancient Hawaiian origins to modern tow-in riders. It's a book to be enjoyed not only by those who surf deep in the waves, but also by those whose taste for adventure is satisfied deep in the pages of a very good book.

Book Surfing

    Book Details:
  • Author : Don Nardo
  • Publisher : Greenhaven Publishing LLC
  • Release : 2014-05-16
  • ISBN : 1420512641
  • Pages : 104 pages

Download or read book Surfing written by Don Nardo and published by Greenhaven Publishing LLC. This book was released on 2014-05-16 with total page 104 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Author Don Nardo examines the many aspects of science underlying the popular sport of surfing. This book discusses the physics of waves, the science behind board shape and how riders stay on the board, covering the principles of gravity, buoyancy, and water surface tension. It also covers the scientific principles behind movements such as popping-up on the board; catching a wave; riding a wave; turning; the "hang-ten"; the "duck dive"; the "turtle roll"; and others. Other connections to science are made through discussion of wiping out, rip currents, collisions and typical injuries, hypothermia, and shark attacks. This volume discusses psychological aspects, especially anxiety.

Book Caught Inside

Download or read book Caught Inside written by Daniel Duane and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 1997-04-10 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Duane's account of a year spent surfing in Santa Cruz, California. Interspersed with the narrative of days passed on the water are good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the art of surfboard design, dexcriptions of the flora and fauna

Book Legends of Surfing

Download or read book Legends of Surfing written by Duke Boyd and published by MVP Books. This book was released on 2009-11-07 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing, Jack London remarked, is “a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.” The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world’s best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it’s like, in this crowded world, to “seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)

Book Surfing in the Movies

Download or read book Surfing in the Movies written by John Engle and published by McFarland. This book was released on 2015-10-05 with total page 261 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing has fascinated filmmakers since Thomas Edison shot footage of Waikiki beachboys in 1906. Before the 1950s surf craze, surfing showed up in travelogues or as exotic background for studio features. The arrival of Gidget (1959) on the big screen swept the sport into popular culture, but surfer-filmmakers were already featuring the day's best surfers in self-narrated two-reelers. Hollywood and independent filmmakers have produced about three dozen surf films in the last half-century, including the frothy Beach Party movies, Point Break (1991) and Chasing Mavericks (2012). From Bud Browne's earliest efforts to The Endless Summer (1966), Riding Giants (2004) and today's brilliant videos, over 1,000 surfing movies have celebrated the stoke. This first full-length study of surf movies gives critical attention to hundreds of the most important films.