Download or read book Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves written by Alexander Babanin and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2011-05-19 with total page 479 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
Download or read book Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves written by Alexander V. Babanin and published by . This book was released on 2011 with total page 480 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking for researchers, modellers, engineers and graduate students in oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
Download or read book Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves written by Alexander Babanin and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2018-03-01 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last 15 years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state-of-the-art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic: researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
Download or read book Ocean Waves Breaking and Marine Aerosol Fluxes written by Stanislaw R. Massel and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2007-10-10 with total page 332 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book fills a gap in knowledge of breaking waves and their influence on the generation of marine fluxes from ocean surfaces. Based on published data as well as on the author's experience, the text explores in detail the relationship chain of breaking waves, whitecaps coverage, rate of wave energy dissipation, amount of aerosol fluxes rising from a given sea basin, and possible seasonal variations.
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves written by Stanislaw R. Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996 with total page 514 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Download or read book The Ocean Surface written by Y. Toba and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2013-04-17 with total page 581 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction 2nd Edition written by Stanislaw Ryszard Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2013-01-30 with total page 690 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.
Download or read book The Breaking of Ocean Surface Waves written by Owen M. Griffin and published by . This book was released on 1984 with total page 162 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: There are essentially four types of breaking waves, as described by Galvin (1968) and many others. The first two types are the plunging breaker, in which the wave crest curls forward and plunges into the slope of the wave at some distance away from the crest; and the spilling breaker, in which the broken region tends to develop more gently from an instability at the crest and often forms a quasi-steady whitecap on the forward face of wave. The third type, surging, sometimes develops as waves are incident upon a sloping beach. A fourth type of breaking, collapsing, is considered by many to be special limiting case of the plunging breaker. Several advances toward an understanding of wave breaking have been made in recent years. These include the experimental characterization of the instability mechanisms which lead to wave breaking in deep water, proposed mathematical models for these instability mechanisms, and numerical simulations of wave overturning and incipient breaking. These topics are discussed here. Little is known quantitatively about the processes of air entrainment in breaking waves. However, a more complete knowledge of the air entrainment process will be required for the further development of plausible models for radar scattering from breaking waves on the ocean surface. A forecase model for the breaking of deep water waves has been proposed and a breaking critierion for use with the model has been formulated. Recent laboratory experiments to study the onset of wave breaking in deep water provide one means for quantifying this criterion in terms of a breaking coefficient. An alternate means for determining this coefficient has been proposed on the basis of stream function wave theory. These topics also are discussed here.
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction Third Edition written by Stanislaw Ryszard Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2017-09-28 with total page 801 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.
Download or read book Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface written by O. M. Phillips and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2012-12-06 with total page 677 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In 1960, Dr. George Deacon ofthe National Institute ofOceanography in England organized a meeting in Easton, Maryland that summarized the state of our understanding at that time of ocean wave statistics and dynamics. It was a pivotal occasion: spectral techniques for wave measurement were beginning to be used, wave-wave interactions hadjust been discovered, and simple models for the growth of waves by wind were being developed. The meeting laid the foundation for much work that was to follow, but one could hardly have imagined the extent to which new techniques of measurement, particularly by remote sensing, new methods of calculation and computation, and new theoretical and laboratory results would, in the following twenty years, build on this base. When Gaspar Valenzuela of the V. S. Naval Research Laboratory perceived that the time was right for a second such meeting, it was natural that Sir George Deacon would be invited to serve as honorary chairman for the meeting, and the entire waves community was delighted at his acceptance. The present volume contains reviewed and edited papers given at this second meeting, held this time in Miami, Florida, May 13-20, 1981, with the generous support of the Office of Naval Research, the National Aeronautics and Space Administration, and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.
Download or read book Ocean Wave Dynamics written by Ian Young and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2020-03-20 with total page 396 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)
Download or read book Breaking of ocean surface waves written by Alexander V. Babanin and published by . This book was released on 2009 with total page 231 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Psychosoziale Onkologie written by Rolf Verres and published by . This book was released on 1989 with total page 355 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves Nonlinear aspects written by Chiang C. Mei and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2005 with total page 595 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are applied, such as singular perturbations. In this expanded edition, two chapters on recent developments have been added: one is on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry, and the other is on Zakharov's theory of broad spectrum wave fields. New sections include topics on infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc. In addition, there are many new exercises. Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.
Download or read book The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind written by Peter Janssen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2004-10-28 with total page 310 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Download or read book The Effect of Breaking Waves on a Coupled Model of Wind and Ocean Surface Waves written by Tobias Kukulka and published by . This book was released on 2006 with total page 183 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Understanding the role of breaking surface waves in air-sea exchange processes is integral to accurate weather and climate modeling. A coupled wind and ocean surface wave model is developed that includes the enhanced form drag of breaking waves. Breaking and non-breaking waves induce air-side fluxes of momentum and energy in a thin layer above the air-sea interface within the constant stress layer (the wave boundary layer). By conserving momentum and energy in the wave boundary layer and wave energy, we derive coupled nonlinear advance-delay differential equations, which govern four physical quantities critical to air-sea transfer processes: the vertical wind profiles of the speed and turbulent stress, the wave height spectrum, and the length distribution of breaking wave crests as a function of wave scale. Introduction of non-dimensional variables elucidates the parameters controlling the momentum fluxes into breaking and non-breaking waves. In order to understand better the coupled wind and wave system, analytic solutions are obtained for limiting cases with either wind input to only breaking or input to only non-breaking waves. To solve the full system of advance-delay differential equations, we developed a numerical method based on two nested iterations. Solutions indicate that the number of breaking waves strongly depends on the sea state. Furthermore, breaking waves may contribute significantly to the total air-sea momentum flux. The breaking wave contribution increases for younger, strongly forced wind waves. This new wind and wave model provides a powerful tool to gain insight into complex coupled wind-wave dynamics.
Download or read book The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves written by Chiang C. Mei and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1989 with total page 770 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
