Download or read book Bound Infragravity Waves written by and published by . This book was released on 1992 with total page 17 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Model predictions of bound (i.e., nonlinearly forced by and coupled to wave groups) infragravity wave energy am compared with about 2 years of observations in 8- to 13-m depths at Imperial Beach, California, and Barbers Point, Hawaii. Frequency-directional spectra of free waves at sea and swell frequencies, estimated with a small array of four pressure sensors, are used to predict the bound wave spectra below 0.04 Hz. The predicted total bound wave energy is always less than the observed infragravity energy, and the underprediction increases with increasing water depth and especially with decreasing swell energy. At most half, and usually much less, of the observed infragravity energy is bound. Bound wave spectra are also predicted with data from a single wave gage in 183-m depth at Point Conception, California, and the assumption of unidirectional sea and swell. Even with energetic swell, less than 10% of the total observed infragravity energy in 183-m depth is bound. Free waves, either leaky or edge waves, are more energetic than bound waves at both the shallow and deep sites. The low level of infragravity energy observed in 183-m depth compared with 8- to 13-m depths, with similarly moderate sea and swell energy, suggests that leaky (and very high-mode edge) waves contribute less than 10% of the infragravity energy in 8-13 m. Most of the free infragravity energy in shallow water is refractively trapped and does not reach deep water.
Download or read book Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone written by Kent K. Hathaway and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 100 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.
Download or read book Infragravity Waves Generated Through Shoaling and Breaking of Wave Groups written by Sriram Sivaram and published by . This book was released on 1992 with total page 372 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Ocean Waves in SAMSON SWADE written by OFFICE OF NAVAL RESEARCH ARLINGTON VA. and published by . This book was released on 1993 with total page 4 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The scientific objective of this project was to determine the origin and governing dynamics of the low frequency (nominally 0.01 Hz) infragravity waves which are sometimes very energetic in shallow water. Possible generation mechanisms include local nonlinear forcing of bound infragravity waves by groups of sea and swell, excitation of freely propagating edge waves in nearby surf zones, and ocean-basin-wide propagation of infragravity waves excited by large, distant storms. Important dynamical questions include what are the amounts of infragravity energy reflected by the beach face, refractively trapped during propagation across the shelf, and lost by bottom friction.
Download or read book Technical Memodrandum written by Waterways Experiment Station (U.S.) and published by . This book was released on 1993 with total page 476 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Wave Runup and Infragravity Energy in the Surf Zone written by Julia Fiedler Kannberg and published by . This book was released on 2018 with total page 109 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Field data of waves in the surfzone and runup on ocean beaches in extreme conditions are rare; empirical prediction formulas of runup are therefore largely based on mild and moderate conditions. Here, the effects of varied offshore conditions on surfzone and runup, including wave heights greater than 7 m, are explored with two unique data sets and numerical modeling. Field studies of infragravity (IG, 0.004-0.04 Hz) waves and wave runup were conducted at Cardiff Beach, California (Winter 2012-2013) and Agate Beach, Oregon (Fall 2013). The beaches were instrumented with a cross-shore transect of pressure sensors, current meters and a scanning lidar at the shoreline measuring wave runup. Runup saturation in the infragravity band is not observed at the low-sloping Agate beach despite considerable IG energy losses in the surfzone. That is, runup continues to increase as offshore wave height increases. The numerical model 1D SWASH accurately predicts the observed bulk runup properties on both beaches without model tuning, even though the assumption of 1D bound long waves at the offshore boundary significantly amplifies the IG energy seaward of the surfzone. Despite agreement in the bulk wave properties, the bound wave boundary condition can propagate errors in nonlinear statistics of the various sea swell and infragravity band interactions well into the domain, depending on offshore conditions. These errors are addressed via inclusion of an offshore boundary condition derived from co-located current and pressure sensor measurements, which accounts for reflection and includes nonlinear phase-coupling. Boundary conditions that can be implemented without infragravity observations (e.g. bound waves) do not accurately simulate infragravity waves across the surfzone, and could corrupt predictions of morphologic change. Infragravity wave properties near the shoreline, however, are predicted to be largely independent of IG offshore boundary conditions, and dominated by local generation and dissipation.
Download or read book Field Observations of Infragravity Sea and Swell Directional Spectra written by and published by . This book was released on 1992 with total page 22 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Infragravity, sea and swell wavenumber-frequency (k-f) spectra from an alongshore-aligned array of bottom-mounted pressure sensors in 8 m depth (800 m offshore) are analyzed for their insight into edge wave generation mechanisms. Eight months of nearly continuous data are analyzed. Earlier analysis of infragravity k-f spectra from this site identified the presence of trapped edge waves, distinct from leaky waves at this offshore location (Oltman-Shay et al., 1992). Here, edge wave variance is separated from other infragravity motions (leaky and bound waves) by their k-f location in the spectra. It is observed that on average edge waves account for -50% of the total infragravity variance at this offshore location, and occasionally dominate with -80% of the variance. Significant wave heights greater than 20 cm are observed. Correlation analysis of up- and down coast progressive edge wave variance with sea and swell directional distributions suggest that swell waves propagating from the same directional quadrant as the edge wave are the dominant generation source; sea waves had significantly lower correlations. An order of magnitude difference in of up- and down coast progressive edge wave variance is occasionally observed and is shown to be expected from the theory of resonant excitation of edge waves through nonlinear difference interaction of swell waves incident to the beach at oblique angles to the normal. The correlation between swell and edge waves from the same directional quadrant is approximately linear and accounts for more than 90% of the up- and down coast edge wave variance over the 8 months.
Download or read book Technical Report CERC written by and published by . This book was released on 1983 with total page 642 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book A Book of Waves written by Stefan Helmreich and published by Duke University Press. This book was released on 2023-07-03 with total page 270 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In A Book of Waves Stefan Helmreich examines ocean waves as forms of media that carry ecological, geopolitical, and climatological news about our planet. Drawing on ethnographic work with oceanographers and coastal engineers in the Netherlands, the United States, Australia, Japan, and Bangladesh, Helmreich details how scientists at sea and in the lab apprehend waves’ materiality through abstractions, seeking to capture in technical language these avatars of nature at once periodic and irreversible, wild and pacific, ephemeral and eternal. For researchers and their publics, the meanings of waves also reflect visions of the ocean as an environmental infrastructure fundamental to trade, travel, warfare, humanitarian rescue, recreation, and managing sea level rise. Interleaving ethnographic chapters with reflections on waves in mythology, surf culture, feminist theory, film, Indigenous Pacific activisms, Black Atlantic history, cosmology, and more, Helmreich demonstrates how waves mark out the wakes and breaks of social histories and futures.
Download or read book Investigation of Wave Grouping Effects on the Stability of Stone armored Rubble mound Breakwaters written by Robert D. Carver and published by . This book was released on 1994 with total page 370 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Mechanics of Coastal Sediment Transport written by J?rgen Freds?e and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1992 with total page 406 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book treats the subject of sediment transport in the marine environment, covering transport of non-cohesive sediment by waves and current in- and outside the surf zone. It can be read independently, but a background in hydraulics and basic wave mechanics is required. It is intended for M.Sc. and Ph.D. students. The primary aim of the book is to describe the physical processes of sediment transport and how to represent them in mathematical models. It does not present a large number of different formulae for the sediment transport rates under various conditions. The book can be divided in two main parts; in the first, the relevant hydrodynamic theory is described; in the second, sediment transport and morphological development are treated. The hydrodynamic part contains a review of elementary theory for water waves, chapters on the turbulent wave boundary layer and the turbulent interaction between waves and currents, and finally, surf zone hydrodynamics and wave driven currents. The part on sediment transport introduces the basic concepts (critical bed shear stress, bed load, suspended load and sheet layer, near-bed concentration, effect of sloping bed); it treats suspended sediment in waves and current and in the surf zone, and current and wave-generated bed forms. Finally, the modelling of cross-shore and long-shore sediment transport is described together with the development, of coastal profiles and coastlines.
Download or read book Treatise on Geomorphology written by and published by Academic Press. This book was released on 2013-02-27 with total page 6392 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The changing focus and approach of geomorphic research suggests that the time is opportune for a summary of the state of discipline. The number of peer-reviewed papers published in geomorphic journals has grown steadily for more than two decades and, more importantly, the diversity of authors with respect to geographic location and disciplinary background (geography, geology, ecology, civil engineering, computer science, geographic information science, and others) has expanded dramatically. As more good minds are drawn to geomorphology, and the breadth of the peer-reviewed literature grows, an effective summary of contemporary geomorphic knowledge becomes increasingly difficult. The fourteen volumes of this Treatise on Geomorphology will provide an important reference for users from undergraduate students looking for term paper topics, to graduate students starting a literature review for their thesis work, and professionals seeking a concise summary of a particular topic. Information on the historical development of diverse topics within geomorphology provides context for ongoing research; discussion of research strategies, equipment, and field methods, laboratory experiments, and numerical simulations reflect the multiple approaches to understanding Earth’s surfaces; and summaries of outstanding research questions highlight future challenges and suggest productive new avenues for research. Our future ability to adapt to geomorphic changes in the critical zone very much hinges upon how well landform scientists comprehend the dynamics of Earth’s diverse surfaces. This Treatise on Geomorphology provides a useful synthesis of the state of the discipline, as well as highlighting productive research directions, that Educators and students/researchers will find useful. Geomorphology has advanced greatly in the last 10 years to become a very interdisciplinary field. Undergraduate students looking for term paper topics, to graduate students starting a literature review for their thesis work, and professionals seeking a concise summary of a particular topic will find the answers they need in this broad reference work which has been designed and written to accommodate their diverse backgrounds and levels of understanding Editor-in-Chief, Prof. J. F. Shroder of the University of Nebraska at Omaha, is past president of the QG&G section of the Geological Society of America and present Trustee of the GSA Foundation, while being well respected in the geomorphology research community and having won numerous awards in the field. A host of noted international geomorphologists have contributed state-of-the-art chapters to the work. Readers can be guaranteed that every chapter in this extensive work has been critically reviewed for consistency and accuracy by the World expert Volume Editors and by the Editor-in-Chief himself No other reference work exists in the area of Geomorphology that offers the breadth and depth of information contained in this 14-volume masterpiece. From the foundations and history of geomorphology through to geomorphological innovations and computer modelling, and the past and future states of landform science, no "stone" has been left unturned!
Download or read book Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves In 2 Parts written by Chiang C Mei and published by World Scientific Publishing Company. This book was released on 2005-07-26 with total page 1135 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are applied, such as singular perturbations. In this expanded version, three chapters on recent developments have been added. The first is on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry. The second is on Zakharov's theory of nonlinear wave fields with broad spectra. The third is an extensive discussion of powerful numerical techniques for highly nonlinear waves. Other new topics include infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc. In addition, there are many new exercises.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.
Download or read book Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves Third Edition In 2 Volumes written by Chiang C Mei and published by World Scientific Publishing Company. This book was released on 2018-03-15 with total page 1240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book set is a revised version of the 2005 edition of Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are demonstrated. In this revised version, five chapters on recent developments in linear and nonlinear aspects have been added. The first is on detailed analyses in Wave/Structure Interactions. The second is a new section on Waves through a Marine Forest, a topic motivated by its possible relevance to tsunami reduction. The third is on Long Waves in Shallow Water and the fourth is an update on Broad-Banded Nonlinear Surface Waves in the Open Sea to include new findings in this topic. The fifth is an expanded chapter on Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Dynamics to include predictions of nonlinear spectral evolution and rogue wave occurrence and dynamics using large-scale phase-resolved simulations. This revised version also includes recent developments in precorrected-FFT accelerated O(N log N) low- and high-order boundary element methods for the computation of fully nonlinear wave-wave and wave-body interactions.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (2016) will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.
Download or read book Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves Linear aspects written by Chiang C. Mei and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2005 with total page 540 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. It is intended for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves.
Download or read book Dynamics of the Coastal Zone written by Matteo Postacchini and published by MDPI. This book was released on 2020-03-19 with total page 182 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The coastal zone is the host to many human activities, which have significantly increased in the last decades. However, sea level rise and more frequent storm events severely affect beaches and coastal structures, with negative consequences and dramatic impacts on coastal communities. These aspects add to typical coastal problems, like flooding and beach erosion, which already leading to large economic losses and human fatalities. Modeling is thus fundamental for an exhaustive understanding of the nearshore region in the present and future environment. Innovative tools and technologies may help to better understand coastal processes in terms of hydrodynamics, sediment transport, bed morphology, and their interaction with coastal structures. This book collects several contributions focusing on nearshore dynamics, and span among several time and spatial scales using both physical and numerical approaches. The aim is to describe the most recent advances in coastal dynamics.
Download or read book Physical and Numerical Model Studies of Barbers Point Harbor Oahu Hawaii written by and published by . This book was released on 1994 with total page 292 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
