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Book An Investigation of the Deformation and Breaking of Solitary Waves

Download or read book An Investigation of the Deformation and Breaking of Solitary Waves written by Frederick E. Camfield and published by . This book was released on 1967 with total page 150 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: It is proposed that solitary waves can be used as the initial wave shape to simulate the shoaling, breaking and run-up of large, long waves on a beach. Experiments were conducted with solitary waves to determine criteria for wave growth, celerity, breaking height and run-up on various beach slopes. In addition, limited investigations were made of reflected bores, effects of variations in the bottom profile, and the effect of multiple slopes, i.e., one slope followed by a second, higher slope, on the breaking and run-up of solitary waves. Further considerations are given to the method of characteristics as a means of analyzing shoaling waves. A qualitative analysis is presented of the effect of vertical acceleration terms on the solution. A comparison is made with other analytical solutions for shoaling waves. The experimental results are tabulated and plotted comparisons of the experimental results and the various analytical methods for shoaling waves are presented. (Author).

Book Observations and Experiments on Solitary Wave Deformation

Download or read book Observations and Experiments on Solitary Wave Deformation written by Stanford University. Department of Civil Engineering and published by . This book was released on 1966 with total page 60 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A series of experiments were run in a two-dimensional wave channel to study solitary wave deformation on plane slopes ranging from horizontal to vertical. The test objectives included verification of deformation theories, delineation of the shoaling processes associated with various beach slopes, and examination of the limit-height-wave concept. The results showed that the deformation process can be classified as a function of the ratio of initial wave height to water depth and beach slope. The deformation theory for reflection from a vertical wall was verified, but the theory for low slopes was found to be only qualitatively accurate. Finally, a redefinition of the limit-height wave on sloping beaches is suggested. (Author).

Book NBS Special Publication

Download or read book NBS Special Publication written by and published by . This book was released on 1918 with total page 1164 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Report

    Book Details:
  • Author : United States. National Bureau of Standards
  • Publisher :
  • Release : 1968
  • ISBN :
  • Pages : 696 pages

Download or read book Report written by United States. National Bureau of Standards and published by . This book was released on 1968 with total page 696 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Deformation of Solitary Waves  Part Ii  Shoaling

Download or read book Deformation of Solitary Waves Part Ii Shoaling written by N. R. Wallace and published by . This book was released on 1964 with total page 52 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This report investigates the properties of a solitary wave treated as a subregion of some fixed domain. By specifying trial boundary values on this larger domain, the velocity potential of a solitary wave can be approximated. For each trial potential function compatible with the symmetry of the fluid particle flow of the solitary wave, a family of possible wave surfaces can be derived from the differential equation of the kinematic boundary condition. The dynamic condition for the free surface is used to select that surface which most closely approximates the physical wave. It is found that McCowan's equations for the steady-state solitary wave are equivalent, in this procedure, to a single dipole field in the geometry of an infinite strip. The shape of the solitary wave undergoing deformation is obtained by mapping a generalized form of the kinematic condition from the domain of deformation to the infinite strip. The introduction of the Bergmann kernel function as a coefficient of the kinematic differential equation facilitates this transformation. This report also describes the application of the single dipole field approximation to the shoaling of a solitary wave on a 45 degree slope. Not only is the point of breaking determinable, but the entire continuous deformation of the solitary wave up to the point of breaking is accessible by the above method. (Author).

Book Selected Water Resources Abstracts

Download or read book Selected Water Resources Abstracts written by and published by . This book was released on 1974 with total page 866 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Coastal estuarine and Nearshore Processes

Download or read book Coastal estuarine and Nearshore Processes written by Evelyn Sinha and published by . This book was released on 1974 with total page 240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book The Breaking and Run up of Solitary Waves on Beaches

Download or read book The Breaking and Run up of Solitary Waves on Beaches written by Ashwini K. Otta and published by . This book was released on 1994 with total page 32 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Deformation of Solitary Waves

Download or read book Deformation of Solitary Waves written by N. R. Wallace and published by . This book was released on 1964 with total page 49 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Hydraulic Research in the United States 1970

Download or read book Hydraulic Research in the United States 1970 written by United States. National Bureau of Standards and published by . This book was released on 1971 with total page 360 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Oceanography

    Book Details:
  • Author : Defense Documentation Center (U.S.)
  • Publisher :
  • Release : 1969
  • ISBN :
  • Pages : 702 pages

Download or read book Oceanography written by Defense Documentation Center (U.S.) and published by . This book was released on 1969 with total page 702 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Hydraulic Research in the United States 1968

Download or read book Hydraulic Research in the United States 1968 written by United States. National Bureau of Standards and published by . This book was released on 1969 with total page 342 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Computer Studies of Finite amplitude Water Waves

Download or read book Computer Studies of Finite amplitude Water Waves written by Stanford University. Department of Civil Engineering and published by . This book was released on 1969 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Two numerical techniques are utilized to study the motion of two-dimensional, finite-amplitude water waves by using an electronic digital computer. The non-linear properties of water waves are of primary interest. The first part of the work introduces the Stanford-University-Modified MAC (SUMMAC) code which is proposed as a valid tool for analyzing incompressible, viscous flows with a free surface under transient conditions. The method is applied to the study of the solitary wave run-up on a vertical wall. The results are compared with the available experimental data and give a much better prediction of the wave run-up than the existing analytic theory. In the second part, Newton's process of successive corrections is applied to solve steady-state potential flows with free surface and gravity. A specific application to the analysis of solitary waves is made and all the wave characteristics are in excellent agreement with experiments. (Author).

Book Hydraulic Research in the United States and Canada

Download or read book Hydraulic Research in the United States and Canada written by United States. National Bureau of Standards and published by . This book was released on 1978 with total page 384 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Deformation of Solitary Waves

Download or read book Deformation of Solitary Waves written by N. R. Wallace and published by . This book was released on 1963 with total page 56 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Hydraulic Research in the United States

Download or read book Hydraulic Research in the United States written by United States. National Bureau of Standards and published by . This book was released on 1952 with total page 222 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: